7/8/2023 0 Comments Le poisson toauIn Mathieu Varille's Cuisine Lyonnaise, first published in 1928, a descriptive recipe for " la vraie quenelle Lyonnaise" is offered, meaning that perhaps there was some question about whether there was a real one or not. 25 of the Parisian weekly Le Gourmet dated February 1894, there's a recipe for quenelles de poisson (no mention of Lyon) that does not include pike in the list of suitable fish but does include the bone marrow. Marrow seems popular for quenelles during that time. The quenelle Lyonnaise seems to have made its distinction at the end of the 19th century, when in the 1890 edition of the Dictionaire universel de cuisine, a recipe for Quenelles de poisson à la Lyonnaise incorporates fish, beef fat and bone marrow, specifying that what makes them Lyonnais is the particular juxtaposition of maigre et graisse, or both lean and fat. There is no mention of Lyon in the work by Dubois and Bernard from the mid 1800s, which offers a series of recipes for quenelles. In the early 19th century Cours Gastronomique, recipes for fish and various meat quenelles are quite similar in method to the modern dish, but again, they aren't specified as Lyonnais. Poultry quenelles are mentioned in a 1750 edition of the Dictionaire des alimens, but no identification as a regional specialty is given. The historical origins of the quenelle come from La Grande Cuisine, with differing theories as to its origins, one being that the name comes from German word knodel, meaning dumpling, while other sources cite the Anglo-Saxon knyll, which means to pound or grind, attributing it to the process applied to meats and fish used in this dish.Īs to their really being Lyonnais, we can conclude from literature that quenelles in general didn't necessarily originate in Lyon. The key word has always been and always will be 'fresh'. The ingredients found in the quenelle de brochet of Lyon are all traditionally local, although today you may see the use of pike offered at market, commonly imported these days. The quenelle is classified as charcuterie those who are in the business of the quenelle indeed do sausage too. A successful quenelle will not resemble a soufflé or taste eggy. It won’t taste heavy or floury, instead it should have an ethereal melt in your mouth deliciousness mingled with a hint of sustenance, consistency and richness. A triumphant quenelle Lyonnaise is going to have a firm consistency, but a certain lightness in its quality. Prepared with pike, a freshwater fish traditionally plentiful in the lakes just north of Lyon with quality butter, milk, and eggs, quenelles are a rich and succulent offering on Lyon's regional list of specialties.
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